What Is A Nesting Box?

This can be anything that your cockatiels make their home. We have had cockatiels make a nest in a plastic container in a kitchen cupboard, also had them make a nest in between some pillows ontop of a wardrobe. Basically if they feel comfortable and safe then they might just settle in…

We have taken cardboard boxes and cut holes in them to use as enterances etc, with windows and curtains… lol, only joking. But cardboard boxes have worked well for us, however the best way that we have found to contain your family and at the same time be able to view into the nest with ease has to be our latest set up. You can check out the video below and see how it looked.

The ideal thing about this setup is that you can easily see into the nest and keep it covered at the same time. Something that we have found most valuable. You will find that the cockatiels do like peace and not to much disturbance, but if you gently make it known that you are there then they won’t get to upset at you looking. Keeping the nesting box inside a larger cage works really good as it allows you to go about your daily duties knowing that your cockatiels are safe inside a cage.

The more often they get used to you the better. Once they have laid their clutch of eggs, the female will probably settle on night shift and the male the days. Being able to see in the nest becomes even more important once the eggs hatch.

Being Able To Help The Baby Cockatiels

This is your most important thing. You will want to make it as easy as possible to look into the nest without a massive effort. Just pulling back the curtain is by far the easiest. Also if you need to get into the nest and lift out the baby cockatiels then that is as simple as just opening the cage door.

An other ideal thing that we found was that by laying the nesting box on it’s side, you reduced the height of the hole that the parents jump in and out of. This makes it a lot easier for them and also reduces the risk of injury or damage to any eggs.

Keeping The Nesting Box Clean

Although some people say that you should not interfeare with the nesting box, we have found this so easy to keep clean. Basically it will be imaculate until the eggs hatch. Then the dropings and food rests will build up. At first it won’t be to bad but as soon as a few baby cockatiels appear it will build up. We found that by just removing some of the aspen from the floor of the nest and replacing it with fresh worked really well.

This also allows you to get to know the baby cockatiels or more importantly allows them to get to know you. It’s especially good when it comes to feeding them and when you want to have them hand tame.

Removing The Eggs

We had one egg that out of four didn’t hatch. After the final baby hatched we counted out 5 more days and then removed the egg. It was not going to hatch and was basically in the way. It was fine for the parents as they had three mouths to feed and were busy enough with that. I would always leave the eggs in the nest until well after the incubation period is over, which could be 25/26 days before taking them out.

If you take them out to soon the female will only want to keep replacing them and you will possibly end up with an egg laying female machine which is not good for her health. If you have a female that fits this description then i’d suggest that you check with an avian vet ASAP.

So there you go… that was our little helpful comments on the set up of an ideal nesting box.

Mating

The first part of the process was the fun bit… or maybe not as the female cockatiel really does scream as if she is being attacked!! However, it takes two to tango as they say.

Even though the female can produce eggs without her partner, she does require the male to make the eggs fertile. The mating session can vary in timing but the fundamentals never change. Once this act has taken place generally more than once… the pair will be rampant in search of a suitable nesting place. Note; a single female can lay an egg in any place she feels comfortable, we have had one laid in the waste paper bin, on my lap and various other places. Be aware that excessive egg laying is not good.

Nesting

I would suggest that if you are wanting to allow your couple to have a go at the whole nesting and raising baby cockatiels saga, then introduce a perfect nesting situation. I say saga as it can become quite an ordeal if things go wrong. Warning, be completly sure that this is what you are prepared for & understand the consequences that may follow. As soon as they have found a suitable nesting area, one that they have decided is fine or one that you have introduced, they will set things in motion.

Egg Laying

Once the nest is sorted and the pair are comfortable, the female will lay her clutch of eggs. This can be any number but generally between 3 – 6. Some females will become egg laying machines and this will require medical attention. Their are certain dangers in the egg laying procedure that you need to be aware of which are life and death situations so please inform yourselves.

Once the eggs have been laid at an interval of one every second day (48 hours) the couple will incubate them for 21 days. Ours have been spot on 21 days each time, some say 19 – 22 days. Our couples have the routine that the female sits during the night from around 6pm till 6am with no break, and the male during the day, with a few changes in between the day shift. This pattern continues once the egg hatches.

Egg Hatching

Baby Cockatiel Hatched

The first sounds of a baby cockatiel can actually be heard from inside the egg. This is a sign that very soon it will crack open the egg and make its way out. Ours took about 4 hours to break through.

The parent will check it over and gently help it free of its shell. The first feed will happen around 12 hours after hatching. The baby cockatiel will just roll and sort of crawl in the nest with the parent sitting on it keeping warm. Every two days an egg should hatch, if some don’t then they were infertile and I suggest removing them (allow a few days extra before taking out). Once the eggs have hatched, the parents will feed them regularly and this is important that you as the owner can see that all the baby cockatiels are being feed and consuming the food.

A Few Hours Old

2 Day Old Baby Cockatiel

Cockatiels are born with their eyes closed and no feathers just a little pale looking alien like shape. They will show fluff within the first 24 hours and be lying on their back and front lots as they can not stand yet. It is important that the parents do keep the baby warm and close to them, if they reject it then you will need to take action.

A feeding schedule will need to be established if you have to step in and help out with the feeding. We had to supplement one of ours as it was missing out at feeding times and not growing fast enough and as a result was not strong enough to fight for it’s food between the two other stronger cockatiels.

A Few Days Old

Cockatiels at 6 & 4 Days Old

The baby will only just be able to stand, make sure that you can see the crop being full and emptied at this stage. This is most important as the baby cockatiel must be fed and the crop must be warm and also functioning. The eyes will still be closed and the body should become covered with fluff. They are about double the size now from hatching.

A Week Old

Now they are standing but not able to walk without falling over. A bit like something top heavy they keep falling forward. The crop should be very visible after feeding from the parents. This is very important and requires continuous attention from all owners. You can see the pin feathers slowly appearing.

Around Ten Days Old

Baby Cockatiels First Time Eyes Open

I say around ten days as this is the time when the baby cockatiel opens it’s eyes for the first time. They still look very bald and helpless at this stage, but the wings and legs, feet and claws are fully visible.

Now they are about four times the size from hatching. Parents are still feeding according to their schedule and the baby cockatiels are showing signs of feathers coming through.

Two Weeks Old

Baby Cockatiel at 2 weeks old

At two weeks these little beauties have some colour showing through there fluff. Also the wings are well deformed and the pin feathers are starting to show more. They have grown considerably in size and are double what they were at 8 – 10 days old. Keep checking that they are being fed and as you hold them you should feel that they have put on some weight. They only weigh between 80 – 120 grams when fully grown.

Three Weeks Old

Three Weeks Old Baby Cockatiel

Right now the baby cockatiels are able to stand very well, however balancing on one leg is still a challenge. They are putting on more weight and growing bigger. The eyes are wide open and bright, the crest feathers are showing as long spikes and the best feathers are most visible on the wings. They still have fluff and are beginning to show some signs of adventure… Remember that you as the owner must always be vigilant and be aware of any signs that something is not right, you must know how to care for your cockatiel .

Four Weeks Old

Four Week Old Baby Cockatiel

The baby cockatiels are now showing good feather growth and have considerable strength in their wings. Although not able to fly yet they are stretching out. The nares are open and clean, the beak has taken on great definition and pale in colour without any blemishes.

We are taking the baby cockatiels out of the nesting box daily to get them used to us and the surroundings. The feathers are covering them quite even now and are showing great patterns. Between now and five weeks they will start to crack the first seeds however the parents still need to continue to feed them.

Five Weeks Old

Five Week Old Baby Cockatiel

Now the baby cockatiels are showing great strength in their wings and practising the flying motions flapping with vigour. They are climbing in and out of the nesting box within the cage. The feathers are very well spread and the majority have opened.

Still being fed by the parents and cracking seeds themselves. They are not able to feed themselves yet. Showing signs of flight determination and the parents are encouraging them to make their first flights. Now they are able to balance on one leg and stretch without falling over…

Six Weeks Old

Six Week Old Cockatiel

During this week they have made their virgin flights and have left the nesting box. We have transferred them into the larger living cage now.

The parents are still feeding them regularly and they are eating seeds and celery. They have had an introduction to water by a spray which they loved. The baby cockatiels sleep on the perches and rummage on the floor of the cage, trying to fly up with some success. Their feathers are still not fully grown, yet they do have complete coverage. They will get longer as they get older.

So there you have it, a detailed first 40 days of our baby cockatiels and how they have progressed. The journey has been really exciting and a pleasure to see how these wonderful creatures evolve from such a small helpless baby into a truly fine cockatiel.

First of all we need to establish in our minds that as owners we can want to help too much and sometimes take over too soon. You should allow the parents to feed their baby cockatiels for as long as they can. Nothing can replace the true nature of this process.

When Should You Start Feeding?

First of all, are you wanting to hand feed them? If so then around three weeks is a good time to start. If you remove them from the nest you will need to set up a ‘brooder’. A purpose made nesting box that you control the temperature of and the feeding times. You will need to get all the utensils that are listed below.

If you notice that at any stage the parents have given up feeding you will need to step up and take over. Also keep a close eye on the nest, you may have a few baby cockatiels hatch and some will become stronger than others quicker. The weak one will end up not being fed enough. It’s nature, only the strongest survive. This is the time that you need to help out. It will be very daunting at first and you probably will struggle, but do not give up as the survival of this little cockatiel is in your hands now. If you are able to get a helping hand all the better.

What You Need When Feeding Baby Cockatiels

• Baby formula (this is specifically designed for feeding and rearing baby cockatiels).
• China or metal bowl to mix the formula in.
• Syringes with small spouts. (long spouts can dammage the babies mouth).
• Feeding spoon.
• Thermometer.
• Hot water bottle.
• Tea towel.
• Scales.
• Tissues.
• Hot water.
• Pen and Tracking chart.

What is the Crop and How To Check it for Fullness

The crop is acts like a stomach. It is a holding chamber for the food. It lies at the bottom of the neck and it widens to alow it to store food. It is known as the widening of the ‘oesophagus’ in technical terms and is the ‘Crop’ to us. It becomes harder to see in grown up cockatiels as their feather coat covers any clear visible signs as a posed to the baby cockatiel without it’s fully grown feather coating which looks kind of naked. In the baby cockatiel it is clearly noticeable.

To check for fullness in older birds to see if they are eating, you can gently feel the crop between your thumb and index finger. When feeding the babies, before each time you feed, check the crop to see that it has emptied. Please note that it should neither be totally empty nor should it still be full. If it is either it could be a sign that something is not functioning correct. Be very observant and if things don’t normalise then seek an avian vets advice. If you notice that it is totally empty then feed a little more frequent. As a rule, every 4 hours the crop will empty. Try not to allow it to be totally empty between feeds.

Hand Feeding

When hand feeding baby cockatiels the most important points to adhere to are;

A) the amount that you feed them, and

B) how often you feed them.

The crop is where the cockatiel stores the food. When young it is clearly visible and you must be vigilant and observe the size of the crop. Each time the baby cockatiel feeds it’s crop will enlarge (swell up) as the food is digested.

A baby cockatiels crop can only hold a certain amount of food, be careful not to over feed, more on that later. As the food gets absorbed into their body it will shrink in size, a sign that it is growing and actually healthy. The older the cockatiels get week by week, the larger the crop becomes and the less frequent it needs to be fed. Feeding becomes less frequent but they eat more food.

How Much to Feed

This is basically determined by close observation of the crop. As the cockatiel feeds the crop will swell up. Each time it swallows the food and it enters the crop and fills it widens. Very young cockatiels will require less food but more often. The crop will become visible as a bulge under the neck in the front of the baby. It will look some what off balance as if overfull. That is a sign of a full crop. The older the bird gets the bigger the crop will become and be even more visible.

After each feeding the crop should be visible and showing full. If not, then it will still be hungry which could lead to starvation. You can also over feed and this is very dangerous. If the excess amount of food comes back from the crop, hence it is too full, it can end up in the throat then in the windpipe and block the air flow which can have dire effects. You may be better off slightly under feeding rather than over feeding.

Preparing the Formula

This will be described on the packet. Generally you take a spoon of formula and slowly add boiling water and mix it well. Make sure that you use boiling water and not hot water from the tap, you want to have bacteria free water and food. Mix it well to remove any lumps that may still be visible. The consistency depends on how old the babies are. Adjust the consistency by adding more or less water. The younger the baby the more on the runny side as opposed to the older and more thick a mix. Before feeding make sure that you test the temperature, it must be warm but never hot. Cockatiels have very sensitive tongues and mouths and at such a young age you can severely harm your bird. Try to only mix enough for what you require as you should not reheat and reuse the mix.

How to Hand Feed

You will need to get set up before removing the baby from the nest or brooder. We take a clean tea towel and wrap it around a hot water bottle. Boil the kettle and pour some water into a cup. Place in your spoons and syringes so as to kill off any bacteria. Make a small amount of formula ready for feeding. The consistency will depend on the age of the baby cockatiel. Draw some of the food into the syringe. Get the baby out and gently hold it on the water bottle in one hand keeping it balanced and having it’s head up.

Test the temperature of the food and then gently allow the food to enter the cockatiels mouth. Do not force the syringe into the mouth and be careful not to squeeze in too much at once. Most of the time the babies will be sounding out for food and moving their heads up high with the mouth wide open (gaping). If this is not the case you will have to entice it to eat. Do this by gently tapping the beak with the syringe until it opens up for a feed. Use a separate syringe for each of your birds just incase one of them has an underlying sickness that can be easily transferred to the other cockatiels.

It is possible that some cockatiels actually stop showing interest in eating when the crop is full. If that is the case then lucky you. Many wont and will keep screaming for food, if you are feeding well, watch carefully that the food actually keeps entering the oesophagus and does not backup in the mouth. Always allow your birds to swallow at a gentle pace. When you are convinced that enough food has been administered check the crop and make a note of the time and weight of your bird on your tracking chart.

You should notice that they are growing in weight each day. Clean off any residue of food from the beak and skin of the baby cockatiel, use a soft tissue with warm water to help. Now return your baby cockatiel to the nest or brooder. Remember to clean up immediately and keep all the utensils in one place. Discard any left over food, always prepare fresh each time you feed. Never reheat used baby formula.

When to Stop Feeding Baby Cockatiels

At around 6 to 8 weeks they would probably fly out from the nest, this is the time to cut back on the formula mix. Introduce a good healthy selection of fresh fruit and vegetables along with the seeds, calcium, and honey bars. Eventually they will forget about the formula as everything else is so tasty to them…

Feeding Baby Cockatiels Week by Week

• New born to 1 week; This is the hardest time to feed. The first 12 hours of life it is normally not fed. The parents just keep it warm and watch over it. After that they should be fed every 2 hours around the clock.

• 1 week to 2 weeks; At this age they then need feeding every 2 hours around the clock.

• From 2 weeks old; Now they are fed every 3 hours around the clock.

• 3 weeks to 4; Every 4 hours, and between midnight and 6am they might not need to be fed. (your time to sleep). 6 & 9am – 12 & 3pm – 6 & 9pm – and 12pm.

Cockatiels in nesting mode

Your cockatiels will start displaying certain signs that show they are getting clucky and are in search of a nest. If you allow your birds to fly free in your home then they will be looking for tight spaces that they can feel safe in. These spaces can be behind boxes, up high on your refrigerator, in a shoebox for example. They may even fly from room to room searching. The calls they make will also be new and exciting especially when they feel like thaty have found a suitable place.

Nothing is sacred any more and you will need to be extra vigilant when they are out and about. Kitchen cupbords are often a favourite. If you take a small shallow container and place it somewhere that you think would suit then, they will find it and talk together and inspect it. This can be an ejoyable time, but be aware you are actually adding to the excitement of your birds and enhancing their desire to nest.

Cockatiel breeding

If you intend to let your cockatiels have a nest and start breeding with the intention of raising the young then that’s fine, but please be aware that it will take a great deal more responsibilty from you. Especially if the parents actually abandon the nest and leave the young to fend for themselves. It is not a given that they will actually be good parents. You may need to step in and become the suragote mother and father… This will require feeding every two hours from day one, so get some sleep now if this is the path that you intend to take.

Mating

This will take place anytime and anywhere. The male will generally hop around and sing making heart shapes with his wings (slightly out from the body). The female will arch her back and wiggle her rear in the direction of the male. He will eventually climb onto her and begin to mate. The female will no doubt at some stage begin to make some lovely beeping sounds and may even scream loud towards the end or if she has had enough. She will then begin to clean herself. The whole process may last about 40 seconds upto 2 minutes.

It is advisable to have couple that have been established for some time before allowing them to breed so that you know that they have created a good bond together. Also some males will not be mature enough to fertalise the eggs and the female will lay infertile eggs. Try to avoid any mating if this is the case as it will only deplete the females imune system and take a lot of her own nutrients to produce empty eggs. You will be better off waiting for a few more months and have a sucessful breeding session.

Excessive egg laying

The female actually doesn’t need the male to lay eggs. He is required to make them fertile. Sometimes the female will actually lay an egg whilst being a single bird. This may be due to her diet and the stimulation from you the owner. Head scratching and back scratching are two signs that they enjoy your company and will allow you to touch them. Often resulting in a close bond between owner and tiel.

A single female will lay an egg in the most strange places. Our first bird laid an egg in the waste paper bin and on my lap. It just goes to show that if they become comfortable with you then anything can happen. The best advice I can give is be prepared and know how to care for your cockatiels.

What you want to avoid is exsessive egg laying. This can lead to serious ilness in the female and will need vetinary treatment. Try and limit your egg laying female to once, twice a year maximum. ‘Pumpkin’, one of our females laid a batch of 5 eggs in the kitchen cupboard. They were infertile, but we left her to sit on them as this is often the best way to stop excessive laying as eventually she will vacate the nest and have it out of her system. If you keep removing the eggs, she may just keep on laying…

Cockatiels egg bound

There are serious dangers when it comes to laying eggs. The female must be able to release the egg or else she will die. Also she must be able to from an egg with a firm shell, if not then the egg may break inside and this is dire. Always ensure that the female has access to a healthy diet of fresh foods as well as seeds. A good calcium supliment in the water daily is advisable. Also calcium and iodine bells, cuttlefish bone are good sources of calcium.

It takes 2 days for the female to produce an egg. If you notice that she is getting a bit swollen around her rear, the vent area, then she could be carrying. She might start to breath heavilly, keep her warm and if you notice her struggleing you can apply a little olive oil to her vent carefully. Make sure she has plenty to drink, also she might enjoy a warm bath. If the struggle continues then I sugest you get to a vet ASAP. If she manages to pass the egg, check that it is firm shelled. If not you will need to increase the calcium intake of your bird (very important). Expect the next egg in two days (48 hours).

Cockatiel pairs

Not all pairs will make great parents. They might seem a happy couple, but the introduction of a nesting box and the future eggs can upset a happy couple. Please note that mating pairs will generally show some signs of aggressive behaviour. They are trying to defend the nest and it is only natural. If you can, establish a good rapport with your birds and the nest so that they can still relax while you are around.

Hopefully the pair will find a rhythm when it comes to sitting on the eggs. Often the female will sit throughout the night from about 5-6 pm till 6-7 am, then the male will take over. The female will probably want to visit a few times during the day also. During this time make sure that the pair are fed a good supply of foods, ours enjoy a warm meal twice a day. As well as the normal seeds etc.

Nesting boxes

You can buy nesting boxes or make one yourself. But even an old cardboard box will do.

Our first set of babies were born and raised in a thin card box which we cut an enterance in the front and taped up the top and botom. It worked fine. You can put some soft tissues on the bottom or some nesting material from the pet store. Even a tea towel would do. Make sure that what you use has nothing that they can get their claws traped in. The inside will stay imaculate until the chicks hatch and start to feed. Then you will notice lots of droppings buiding up. Try and clean this out at every opportunity you have. It will be only droppings from the babies as the parents will keep it as clean as they can.

I hope this helps anyone that wants to get into breeding or even just having the pleasure of a successful pair of cockatiels nest for the first time…

Micky’s first egg

Micky with partner Bubbles (in photo) have managed to produce an egg. They have been together for about 2 years now and have once before had 4 eggs, however because Bubbles was to young (immature) he was unable to fertilise the eggs.

After sitting for 21+ days, none of the eggs hatched. It was quite a sad time for them (and us). Now that Bubbles is well mature we have no worries that this batch will produce baby cockatiels.

How many eggs?

Your guess is as good as mine on this. I’m going for 4 again. How many will hatch we will have to wait and see. You can follow the progress right here. The second egg should arive in 2 days around lunch time, i’ll keep you posted.

Bubbles is the offspring from Birdy (our first tiel) and Romeo her hubby. Micky came to us from a great friend Vicky who has bred lots of birds over many years and whom we can be grateful for helping us with our cockatiels and passing on very valuable avian knowledge. Micky is slightly older than Bubbles and they have a sound bond together. They communicate well and are very gentle.

How does it work?

Micky will sit on the egg over night and Bubbles will relieve her in the morning. This will stay the routine right the way through. Micky will not come off the egg until day light, that’s the way these birds have the system. When she comes off in the morning she will make a huge poo then eat lots.

You could see that Micky was carrying an egg, and she also smelt ‘eggy’. That is a rich creamy smell, you would notice the difference. It takes two days to produce an egg. We have plenty of calcium supplies and god mix of fresh food and also warm food. This is very important for the female during this time and also ongoing through the laying and then the hatching of baby cockatiels.

We will endeavour to update you regularly on the progress…